Tag Archives: mould

End of Year Show: Preperation

9 Jun

Over the past week I have been working on my end of year show piece. I’m working in a group with some of the really great girls in my year so I’m excited to see the final results on Thursday.

My role within the group was to design the facial makeup and create the gill and spine prosthetics – I also collaborated with Shona on some of the details of her body-paint role. We all discussed what each of us had worked on and brought our ideas together to create a final plan we were all happy with, updating each other regularly with our progress on our Facebook group.

Today I am in Uni, creating the PlasSil moulds. I was originally going to create 3D transfers using Pro-bondo however I have realised this won’t really work as I need to use the moulds to make several pieces. So I’m going to use liquid latex. I hate using liquid latex for prosthetics; alas, needs must. I’ve been speaking to Grace McComisky about how she creates her pieces as I need to work on more substantial materials for my appliances! (PS. Anyone want to give me some make-up work so I can earn the money to BUY these materials – much appreciate 😉 )


First Layer of PlatSil

First Layer of PlatSil



Creating a Silicone/Fiberglass Mould

2 Apr


Step one was very similar to step two: once I has bedded in my hand, added the wall and then poured the silicone into the mould I allowed it to set. Once it has set I removed the clay walls and wiped down the silicone.


I then added a gel layer, followed by the two fiberglass layers. We shall talk through these processes in Step Two.100_4701



  • PPE
  • Gel Coat
  • Resin
  • Catalyst
  • Fiberglass strands
  • Small square fiberglass sheets
  • Covered board
  • Clay (to stabilise mould)
  • 2x Paper cups (plastic will melt)
  • 2x Wooden mixing sticks
  • 2x Disposable brushes


  1. Remove hand and clay from inside the Fiberglass/Silicone Negative – use water to wet the clay. You may need to remove the Outer Fiberglass shell to enable the silicone to be peeled away from the hand. Clean out the silicone mould – then sturdy horizontally with clay pieces.
  2. Mix together the gel coat and catalyst, ensuring through mixing. Coat the silicone in this with a disposable brush, ensuring there are no bubbles being trapped in the mould. This should only be a coating, not a full layer. Make sue edges are neat and all areas are covered. Then add fiberglass stands to strengthen this and ensure the fiberglass mat fuses properly.100_4711
  3. We then add the first fiberglass matt layer. After an hour, once it has “gone green” we cut the excess away and apply our second fiberglass matt layer (as second image). Once this has dried, we have our fiberglass positive and we are ready to start sculpting!

Sue Day: Silicone Painting & Hair Punching Lesson

12 Nov

Today we had a session with Sue Day, who works at Madame Tussaud’s. We have been working with Martin from Madame Tussaud’s for a few weeks now on life casting, however Sue came in to teach us about painting silicone and hair punching.

Using a ready made silicone piece (originally of David Beckham), we practiced colouring. We used a silicone/turps/oil paint mix, creating the consistency and colours ourselves.

I wanted to work with a “flesh” coloured piece so I could create a more realistic look, but instead was given a opaque red-pink piece. I instantly gave it  green wash to try combat the horrible colour; though not knowing yet how to use the paint, I did leave a few green dots – oops. Using the flicking technique with a stiff brush and light washes with a small brush, I built up layers of colour to create a human skin pattern, paying attention to where certain colours would lie in the skin, such as more blues for the thin eye skins, where veins would show through.

Colour Build

Colour Build

She then showed us how to punch hair, the actual punching is pretty easy.

All you need is a normal needle; cut the end off the eye so you have a fork-like implement, then mount this in a needle grip handle (the same one used for a knotting needle). Next push the hair into the silicone, the key is the angle and direction. You need to study how the hair grows out of the skin to ensure a realistic growth pattern,  keeping the needle very horizontal if you want the hair to lie on the skin surface, vertical if pushing away from the body.

We were meant to use curled hair (curled by wrapping straight hair around a chopstick and boiling), however I wanted to create old man eyebrows, which often are quite messy and stick out a lot, so I used straight human hair.

Initial piece, next to the finished piece.

Initial piece, next to the finished piece.

Next stage is colouring and punching our own silicone piece… stay tuned!